Well, again I have used a good opening line as my title and so find it mildly awkward to begin my post. So basically yeah, that’s what happened. I'm safe and sound at Faris' house but we did have to make a quick exit from the jazz club (cool to hear Nepalis playing jazz although these particular guys weren't super heavy) when Faris and the other embassy guys got calls telling us to just go home and not risk any encounter with the rowdy Maoists. The Maoists had an ideology once but now are just thugs basically (so I'm told). It seems they are both a cause and expression of the general frustration that many Nepalis feel due to the things I mentioned in my last post.
But I've began at the end of the day. First thing I did was visit Pasupathinath which is the holiest Hindu sight in Nepal. It is a steep river valley with a large main temple and many smaller temples almost all dedicated to Shiva who is the destroyer/recreate in Hinduism. It is also where Hindus from the surrounding area bring their dead to be cremated. Hindu practice is to burn the deceased’s body within 24 hours of death. We (Sandesh and I) saw one cremation from about 30 feet away and ended up breathing in some of the smoke which I thought later was weird. But breathing strange smoke has been par for the course so far on my trip East. We then followed our tour guide (who I paid way too much at the end) clockwise throughout the part of the site where non-Hindus were allowed. I'll post some pictures once I can siphon them out of my camera.
Next stop after lunch was Patan Durbar Square where one to the past royal families lived when Kathmandu was divided into three kingdoms. From the highest part of the square you could see down its length with the Himalayas in the back ground. Fortunately it was a very clear day with a great view. Again in this square was a series of temples dedicated to various Hindu gods and one to Krishna. There are Kama Sutra depictions carved into the facades which out guide told us were intended as instructions for the very young newlyweds of that time. The scenes are really wild and carved in stone as part of a holy temple, which is a concept completely foreign to the kind of religion I'm used to. But hey, no judgments from me, we're all people trying to understand things much bigger than ourselves.
I stocked up on winter gear on the way back for my hike tomorrow. Fleece hat, gloves, shirt, long undees (with designer labels, maybe made in the same factory as the real brands) and wool socks for 18 bucks. So I'm all set. I hike up to Nagrakot, a city on a ridge with an unobstructed view of the real mountains. Then I stay overnight and head down to Bhaktapur the next day. I got a new compact flash card since my camera was running out of dubious pictures to delete.
love,
Andrew
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)

1 comment:
Hi Andy,
Great to finally find your "much talked about" blog. I am jealous that you are in Nepal! if you need any assistance, please do let me know, although you seem to be in pretty good hands.
I couldn't help remember all the American (read: not European or Asian) friends I used to have when I was living there, comment on the temple and stuff, when I read your blog. When you are in India, I recommend you visit the Khajurao temples (the ancient marvel of its own) - which will actually really throw you off, if you are already mesmerized by the Patan Krishna Mandir. :) Just a suggestion!
Apart from that, I hope you're having a decent time and haven't had to buy a mask yet to ward off the polluted air.
Happy sightseeing and immersing in the country in whatever time you have! I can't wait to be there this summer.
Dikshya (dixya@Yahoo.com)
Post a Comment